Short answer: a Jackery can run any device whose running watts stay under the unit's rated AC output and whose total energy use fits the battery. Two numbers decide everything: watts (can it start and run the device?) and watt-hours (how long will it last?). This guide shows how to work out both, and where the estimates can mislead you.
The Two Numbers That Matter
Watts: can it run at all?
Every Jackery has a continuous AC output rating and a higher surge rating for short motor-start spikes. If your device draws more than the continuous rating, the unit will shut down or trip protection. Check the device's label, which often lists watts, or volts × amps.
Watt-hours: how long will it run?
Battery capacity is listed in Wh. A rough runtime formula:
Runtime (hours) ≈ battery Wh × 0.85 ÷ device watts
The 0.85 factor is a common rule of thumb for inverter and conversion losses. It is an estimate, not a Jackery guarantee. Small loads on an inverter can lose proportionally more, so treat results as a ceiling. For how the pieces fit together, see How a Jackery Solar Generator Works.
Typical Device Wattage Chart
These are typical ranges, not measurements from our own testing. Your device may differ, so check its label or use a plug-in watt meter.
| Device | Typical running watts | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Phone charging | 5–20 W | Use USB ports when possible |
| LED light | 5–15 W | Very efficient |
| Laptop | 45–100 W | Varies by model and load |
| Starlink Mini | Roughly 20–40 W | Confirm with SpaceX specs |
| CPAP (no heated humidifier) | Roughly 30–60 W | Heated humidifier raises draw a lot |
| Modern fridge | 100–200 W running | Compressor start surge is higher; cycles on and off |
| Sump pump (1/3 hp) | Roughly 400–800 W running | Start surge can be 2–3× higher |
| Microwave | 700–1,500 W | Rated cooking watts, not input |
| Space heater, hair dryer, kettle | 1,000–1,800 W | Heavy; drains batteries fast |
Matching Loads to Jackery Models
Capacities and outputs change by generation, so the table below uses the general size classes rather than exact specs. Look up the exact Wh and AC output for the model you're considering on the official Jackery product page, and see Jackery Models, Features and How They Work for background.
| Size class | Usually suited to | Usually not suited to |
|---|---|---|
| Small (about 300 Wh class) | Phones, lights, laptops, Starlink Mini, many CPAPs for a night | Fridges, pumps, any heating appliance |
| Mid (about 1,000 Wh class) | All of the above, plus a fridge for some hours, small TVs, a few power tools | Space heaters, sustained high-wattage cooking |
| Large (about 2,000–3,600 Wh+ class) | Fridge, sump pump, window AC for limited periods, multiple devices | Running electric heat for long periods |
| Expandable/home backup | Selected circuits through a transfer setup | Whole-home loads without careful planning |
For model-by-model specs, the Explorer lineup comparison is the next step. If you're unsure how generations differ, read the v2 vs Plus explainer.
Worked Examples
Laptop and phone for a workday
A 60 W laptop plus 10 W of phone charging is about 70 W. On a 300 Wh unit: 300 × 0.85 ÷ 70 ≈ 3.6 hours. On a 1,000 Wh unit: about 12 hours.
Refrigerator
A fridge may average only 50–100 W over time because the compressor cycles. A 1,000 Wh unit could plausibly cover several hours to most of a day, but this varies widely. Use a watt meter over 24 hours to get your real figure. Starting surge matters too.
Medical devices
For CPAP or other health-related equipment, don't rely on estimates alone. Check the manufacturer's power specs, add a safety margin, and talk with your clinician or equipment supplier about backup plans. See Which Jackery is best for a CPAP machine? Portable power stations are not a substitute for medically rated life-support backup.
Recommended for youJackery Explorer Lineup Compared: 300 vs 1000 vs 3600 Plus vs 5000 PlusPractical Steps to Size Your Setup
- List what you must power and find each device's running watts.
- Add up the loads you'll run at the same time. Compare to the unit's continuous AC rating.
- Check surge. Motors (pumps, compressors) can need far more at startup.
- Estimate hours per day for each device and multiply to get Wh.
- Add a 20–30% margin for losses, cold weather and battery aging.
- Plan recharging. See how to charge a Jackery and SolarSaga panel options. Solar output depends on sun, angle and season.
Honest Tradeoffs
- Heat is expensive. Anything that makes heat will drain a power station quickly. Pick another approach for heating where you can.
- Bigger costs more and weighs more. Buy for your real loads rather than a worst case.
- Expansion adds flexibility, but compatibility is model-specific. See expansion batteries and home backup kits. Home connections should be done by a licensed electrician.
- Monitoring helps. The app can show live input and output so you can adjust. See app control and smart features.
Specific Questions
- Can a Jackery power a Starlink Mini?
- Can a Jackery run a sump pump?
- Can you use a Jackery indoors? Keep ventilation and manufacturer guidance in mind.
Before You Buy
Wattage figures here are general ranges. Confirm exact capacity, AC output, surge rating, and current pricing on the official Jackery site. When you have your total watts and daily Wh, use the lineup comparison to shortlist models that fit.
Keep reading
How a Jackery Solar Generator Works: Battery, Inverter, Ports and Solar Input ExplainedA Jackery solar generator is a battery, an inverter, a charge controller and a set of ports in one…
How to Charge a Jackery: Wall, Car and Solar Methods and Times for Every ModelCharging a Jackery is simple in principle: power goes into the battery through a wall outlet, a car…
Jackery SolarSaga Solar Panels: Models, Wattage, Setup and CareJackery SolarSaga panels are the foldable solar panels the company sells to recharge its Explorer p…